The Beara-Breifne Way follows the fourteen-day march taken by Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beare and one thousand supporters in 1603. The Way, the longest in Ireland, runs almost the length of the country and takes the walker to some of its most beautiful and least explored areas: along the coast of the Beara Peninsula; across six mountain ranges; along the banks of the River Shannon and through the lake regions of Roscommon and Leitrim. The landscape contains an extraordinary variety of heritage sites - prehistoric features, castle ruins and religious and battle sites – many of which bear witness to the march of four hundred years ago.
The Beara-Breifne Way interlinks a series of local ways including: The Beara Way, Slí Mhúscraí Gaeltacht, Duhallow Way, Ballyhoura Way, Multeen Way and Hymany Way . The route follows off-road tracks and quiet back roads. However, traffic has increased in recent years and walkers are asked to take care, particularly on the busy roads entering and leaving towns and villages. The Beara-Breifne Way cross both public and private lands and dogs are not permitted. Access to private lands is by kind permission of local landowners, arranged by the local community, and especial thanks are extended to both landowners and community groups for their assistance in making this venture possible. Walkers should be aware that The Beara-Breifne Way is closed to the public for one day each year, the 31st January.
The Beara-Breifne Way is still under development in several counties but it is currently possible to walk all the sections outlined below:
| From Allihies, Co. Cork | From Ballingeary, Co. Cork |
| From Castletownbere, Co. Cork | From Millstreet, Co. Cork |
| From Adrigole, Co. Cork | From Galbally, Co. Limerick |
| From Glengarriff, Co. Cork | From Tipperary Town, Co. Tipperary |
| From Kealkill, Co. Cork | From Donohill, Co. Tipperary |
| From Ballyvourney, Co. Cork | From Cappawhite, Co. Tipperary |
| From Portumna, Co. Galway | From Meelick, Co. Galway |
| From Clonfert, Co. Galway | From Aughrim, Co. Galway |
The Beara Peninsula
In 1602 Munster was ravaged by war. At Kinsale, the English forces of Elizabeth I had defeated the Irish and Spanish coalition. Crown forces pursued the O’Sulllivan Beare Chieftain to Beara and captured his castles at Dursey and Dunboy. O’Sullivan Beare and an army of supporters withdrew to the Coomerkane Valley, near Glengarriff, and launched guerrilla attacks on their enemies.
Following a siege, the English army struck a blow and captured the herds on which the camp depended for food. On New Year’s Eve 1602, faced with almost certain starvation, O’Sullivan Beare fled with four hundred fighting men and six hundred camp followers – women, children, servants and porters: a thousand men and women on an epic march northwards.
Travelling in the direction of Gougane Barra, O’Sullivan hid his wife and young child in a place known as Eagle’s Nest.
The Beara-Breifne sections of the Beara Way
The Beara Way is approximately 220 km in length and encircles the Beara Peninsula in West Cork. The route completes a circuit of the breathtaking coastal and mountain scenery of this peninsula before turning inland to Kealkill beyond which the Beara Way ends and Slí Mhúscraí Gaeltacht begins.
Map
From Allihies
From Castletownbere
From Adrigole
From Glengarriff
From Kealkill
The Lee Valley, Muskerry
On the first night, following a march of twenty six miles, O’Sullivan Beare and his followers set up camp at An Teampaillín at Augheris in Ballingeary. O’Sullivan camped on holy ground wherever possible on his fraught journey north. It offered sanctuary in hostile territory and added a sense of pilgrimage to his march. The following day, folklore records that O’Sullivan lost his favourite horse named An Chearc, (the Hen) while crossing boggy ground. The site is known as Poll na Circe (Hole of the Hen) to this day.
At St. Gobnait’s Shrine in Ballyvourney O’Sullivan Beare prayed for a safe journey but the travellers were nonetheless attacked, by former allies, the MacCarthys of Carrigaphooca. The running battle lasted four hours, with the MacCarthys sniping from the rear, until O’Sullivan was forced to wheel his forces around and rout them.
Walking the Slí Mhúscraí Gaeltacht sections of the Beara Way
Slí Mhúscraí Gaeltacht is one of the shortest sections on the Beara-Breifne Way but is one of the richest in terms of Irish culture. It is the only local way that passes through a Gaeltacht, that is, an area in which the Irish language is spoken on a daily basis. The local route passes through a variety of landscapes including the ridges of the rivers Lee and Sullane. The area is also renowned for its traditional music, singing and poetry.
Above Ballyvourney, on the slopes of Mullaghanish, Slí Mhúscraí Gaeltacht ends and the Beara-Breifne Way, Duhallow begins.
Slí Mhúscraí Gaeltacht is bounded on the westward side by the Beara Way, just outside of Kealkill.
From Ballyvourney
From Ballingeary
Duhallow
O’Sullivan Beare and his followers set up camp for a second night near Millstreet but got little sleep as they were harassed by a MacCarthy faction from Kilmeady Castle throughout the night, although this involved more noise than violence. The convoy crossed the River Blackwater the following morning, a serious undertaking in the freezing winter weather, and were attacked again by the O’Keefes of Boinng Castle.
The remains of the marchers continued to Newmarket.
Walking the Beara-Breifne Way, Duhallow
The local walking route through the rich, rolling farming surrounding Millstreet is known as the Duhallow Way and runs in a generally east-west direction. The Beara-Breifne Way uses only a small portion of this route as it heads northwards. To help walkers distinguish, the Beara-Breifne logo is used on all signage and the route is called "The Beara-Breifne Way, Duhallow".
South of Millstreet, over the hills and on the south-facing slopes of the Shehy peaks, the route enters the area known as Muskerry in which Irish is the first language and becomes Slí Mhúscraí Gaeltacht [Link B] (pronounced Slee Voos-kree Gale-tockt and translating as: The Muskerry Gaeltacht Way).
Northwards, further sections are earmarked for development in the next year and these will link Millstreet to the Ballyhoura Way in South Tipperary.
From Millstreet
Ballyhoura
On his journey northwards, O’Sullivan Beare got wind of a planned ambush by the Barrys of Buttevant and swung east towards the Glen of Aherlow.
The party then turned westward but while crossing a ford near Liscarroll became embroiled in their first major engagement with an English garrison. Despite the assistance of the Barrys, the attackers were beaten back. Unable to enjoy their victory, the marchers now needed to cross the Golden Vale to reach the safety of the Slieve Felims.
The Earl of Desmond and his troops attacked the marchers north of Galbally. To the rear the assailants of the preceding day also attacked and this became one of the fiercest battles of the march.
Walking the Beara-Breifne sections of the Ballyhoura Way
The local Way through Ballyhoura Country - an area of undulating green pastures, woodlands, hills and mountains on the borders of counties Limerick, Tipperary and Cork - is called The Ballyhoura Way. It is a linear walk but is also linked to a number of local loop walks. It is approximately 90 km in length and includes stretches into the lush pasturelands of the Golden Vale, the beautiful Glen of Aherlow and through the wild and spectacular uplands of the Ballyhoura mountains and Slieve na Muc.
Presently the Beara-Breifne Way is using just the most northerly portion of this route as far as Tipperary Town. However, this will be extended southwards in the coming year to join with the Beara-Breifne Way, Duhallow near Millstreet.
The Ballyhoura Way ends in Tipperary Town where The Multeen Way begins.
From Galbally
From Tipperary Town
Multeen and North Tipperary
On the fourth day of his forced march, Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beare reached Solohead where he camped with his followers on a bitterly cold night.
The convoy attacked a fortified tower on the mound of Donohill in search of food. The local O’Dwyers defended their stronghold, but quantities of grain, meal, and beans were seized and devoured raw. At Cappaghwhite O’Sullivan and followers were attacked by the Earl of Ormond’s men; by now only two thirds of the original one thousand remained.
Walking the Beara-Breifne Sections of the Multeen Way
The Multeen Way follows the route of O’Sullivan Beare northwards from Tipperary town. It stretches across some of the most unspoilt rural areas in South Tipperary, taking in the two extremes of the fertile lowland plains of the Golden Vale around Tipperary town, and the scenic uplands of the Red Hills, with panoramic views that extend into seven counties. Much of this route is off-road across beautiful countryside, including pastureland and woodlands, and provides a unique opportunity to appreciate the wildlife of this part of the county.
Tipperary Town marks the southernmost reach of the Multeen Way, beyond which the Beara-Breifne baton is taken up by the Ballyhoura Way.
The Multeen Way ends in Upperchurch which itself boasts a number of loop routes. The project will develop further routeline through North Tipperary in the coming year to be known as "The Ormond Way" and which will meet The Hymany Way in Galway.
From Tipperary Town
From Donohill
From Cappawhite
[will have pdf of brochure with map for each for you to put on site]The Shannon Crossing and East Galway
By January 7th, 1603, the column of marchers had reached the banks of the Shannon. They fashioned a rough boat over a period of two days, butchering eleven horses for their hides, the flesh doubtless hungrily devoured. Most of the party was ferried over the Shannon during the night. In the morning the Sheriff and his soldiers attacked. They were overwhelmed and MacEgan of Redwood Castle, was killed, with fifteen of his men. The O’Maddens of the Connaught bank hastened O’Sullivan on his way, but not before the ravenous horde plundered a local village, feasting on raw beans, grain and stolen ale.
By the 10th January 1603 O’Sullivan Beare’s famished and battle-weary convoy had their passage blocked at Aughrim Hill by two troops of cavalry and five companies of soldiers under the command of Captain Henry Malby. O’Sullivan’s convoy scattered at the sight of this well-organised army. However, in a remarkable battle speech, O’Sullivan Beare rallied his exhausted troops to fight, though vastly outnumbered. Henry Malby and Richard Burke, his senior officer, were killed. Demoralized, the crown forces retreated to a nearby garrison. Despite his remarkable victory, O’Sullivan Beare and his camp, many of whom were wounded, marched 20 miles into the night to avoid further attacks from surrounding garrisons.
Walking the Beara-Breifne sections of The Hymany Way
The local way in East Galway is called The Hymany Way. It traverses the plains of this area along its watercourses, including the banks of the River Shannon, through farmland, and alongside the bogs for which the Irish midlands are famous.
It is hoped to extend the Hymany Way northwards in the future to link with the Suck Valley Way and on to Leitrim.
In the near future the Hymany Way will join with the Multeen Way to the south via "The Ormond Way" – a new walking route in North Tipperary which is currently under development.
From Portumna
From Meelick
From Clonfert
From Aughrim